So I called up Mr. Hong earlier in the week to see if he was up for grabbing a drink. End of the year is a busy time for Japanese employees; not only do they have end of the year dinner parties with their coworkers, they also usually have project deadlines. In that antenna company I worked in, it usually meant that the employees with the hardest project were literally sleeping and living at the company for the entire month of December. As this trip was an all of the sudden sort of thing, I didn’t expect anyone at the old office would have time to catch up, but Mr. Hong was able to make some time. He was working late of course, so I set out an hour or so ahead of time just to get in some more walking time.
Someone had the Christmas spirit – note that this is very rare in Japan. Very, very few people decorate for Christmas. I liked it though, and he did a lot better than a lot of wankers down here in Charleston that just put electric light candles in their windows.
A corner “bar” – its mostly older guys who sit here and yap with the owner while drinking whiskey or shochu and snacking on something salty
The Seibu Shijuku line zips through the city
Red lanterns typically indicate that the establishment serves booze They also have a sign advertising that they serve Kirin Ichiban Shibori beer.
A carry-out yakitori stand selling all kinds of grilled chicken and gizzards on a stick
Rogers – its like the Kmart of rural and suburban Japan. My wages were very basic in Japan, so I furnished my one bedroom apartment with goods sold here: curtains, bathroom mats, et cetera. It was only about fifteen minutes from my apartment. They also sell groceries and cheap clothing. If you want to pick up a basic white shirt or belt for work, you cannot beat the prices. I’m not ashamed to talk about it, but apparently Japanese are embarrassed to speak of shopping at Rogers, especially those who want to appear more “metro” and “urban”. Nonetheless, I highly recommend the store to foreigners getting settled in Saitama.
My favorite ramen shop – あじ平 (ajihei). It is on Rt. 16 and is basically a truck stop ramen chain that can be found in Saitama, Ibaraki, and other neighboring prefectures. They have all of your basic types of ramen, but they prepare your miso ramen in an mini-iron caldron. I’ve traveled to Saporro, home of Miso ramen, and I can proudly say I prefer this truck-stock ramen joint to the place in Sapporo I had to stand in line for just to get miso ramen.
A bow of the Ajihei’s miso ramen – the noodles are stacked in the middle, surrounded by chashao, and topped with sliced onion. And of course all of this bathes in a heavenly miso soup base…this might just be my favorite meal in the world.
Seibu shinjuku line again, this time I’m off to central Kawagoe
Matsuya, Saitama’s answer to Yoshinoya and Sukiya. Yoshinoya is big in Tokyo, but all over Saitama you find Matsuya. All three brands are 丼 (donburi) chains with their essential product being a bowl of rice topped with beef and onions, and it usually comes with a side salad. In the winter time Matsuya had Kim-chee Chigae donburi, which really warms you up in the cold of winter! It will cost you about $5 for the whole meal–and with such fast food options, who needs McDonald’s???
When you enter the store there is a vending machine where you select what you’d like. The vending machine spits out a ticket (or more if you ordered other sides like natto or an egg). You take that ticket and sit down at the counter where a shop employee will retrieve the ticket and begin to prepare your meal. If you’d rather just take the meal back home, go to the carry-out counter and hand over your tickets, and in a few minutes you’ll be ready to go. These chain restaurants are very popular with men and women. Women, however, are often too shy to sit at the counter where the men are woofing down a fast meal, but you do see the ladies lined up at the take-out counter. Everyone likes a good donburi!
A small family-run shop selling Croquettes, fried chicken bites (kara-age) and deep-fried breaded pork cutlets – I am always happy to see small mom and pop shops like this staying in business. Much like the USA, Japan is being overrun with national chain stores
If you have some money to blow, try one of the man pachinko and slot machine establishments in your local city. Most employees in Japan are on some form of a pension system, either through their company, through an industrial union, or even a private pension offered through an insurance company. There is also of course the state pension, so instead of having to tuck away money into a 401k and pray the market doesn’t tank when you are 59 years old, you can rely on your job and your state pensions for retirement, and then blow all of your cash gambling.
Taxi pool at Kawagoe station west exit – I met up with Mr. Hong here and we had to search for quite awhile to find a restaurant with some open seats. The restaurants were packed due to the end-of-year parties. We settled on a shop that specializes in the chicken dishes.
Mr. Nagatsuka andd Mr. Hong, my former coworkers at the antenna company. Mr. Nagatsuka was the first person at the company to actually come up and talk to me. Also an avid beer fan, we enjoyed many a night around the table sharing stories over beer. Mr. Hong and I were in the same “entrance class”, meaning we went through the same new employee training program. Mr. Hong is an ethnic Korean born in China, and he speaks Japanese, Korean and Chinese like a native! Us both being foreigners and new to Japanese corporate culture, we just tended to stick together.
As the night progressed and I heard all about how the company had changed, I had forgotten how a man’s life is fully encompassed by his job in Japan. No time for hobbies, learning outside of work, or recreational sports. Just work. Work. Earlier in the week I had been really thinking hard about Japan, about how much I missed it. But after hearing about these guys and how hard they are working, on average 70 hours a week, and during crunch times sleeping at the office just four hours a night, I remembered why it was I wanted to leave Japan in the first place. It is a wonderful country, but unless you are lucky enough to have a good job, you work and just work. Weekends are a time to sleep and rest to prepare for the coming week, and sometimes weekends are even for working. The adverse health effects of high-stress and long hours really stands out after time. Men have no problem with it when they are in there twenties, but problems appear in the thirties, and by the forties, the effects are very acute. One of our former coworkers had to retire at the age of forty due to so much work and stress. I miss many things in Japan, but I do not miss Japanese corporate culture.
After Mr. Nagatsuka headed back on the last train for the evening, Mr. Hong and I decided to go for another drink at a local yakitori restaurant. Grilled chicken and chicken gizzards are great with beer, by the way.
Much beer was consumed
And then some more
We wrapped up around 3:30 AM, and headed home in taxi. Mr. Hong had to go to work the following afternoon, even though it was a Saturday. It would be my last day in Japan, and the plan was to visit the family graves to pay respects. Amazingly, I woke up at 8 AM the following day with no pain in the skull. Luck was on my side!
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